Safe to use 220V electric clothes dryer when building has been bridged down to 110V?My house was hit by...
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Safe to use 220V electric clothes dryer when building has been bridged down to 110V?
My house was hit by lightning. What should I do?How is power to an entire room restored by plugging something into an outlet in an adjacent room?Testing 3-wire receptacles indicates no ground even though 12/2 w/ground wire is connectedWhat could cause a 220v dryer outlet to have proper voltage but not power the dryer?Is it safe to use a 10 ft non-UL listed power cord for my dryerWhy does my laundry machine trip the GFCI when I plug it in?Practical advice needed on house with no earth/groundCircuit breaker won't turn back on after being turned off (not tripped)
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We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.
Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.
Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?
I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.
From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.
Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.
electrical appliances us
add a comment
|
We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.
Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.
Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?
I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.
From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.
Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.
electrical appliances us
1
If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
1
That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.
Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.
Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?
I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.
From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.
Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.
electrical appliances us
We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.
Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.
Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?
I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.
From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.
Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.
electrical appliances us
electrical appliances us
edited 8 hours ago
AllInOne
asked 8 hours ago
AllInOneAllInOne
1452 silver badges12 bronze badges
1452 silver badges12 bronze badges
1
If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
1
That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
1
If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
1
That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
1
1
If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
1
1
That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
add a comment
|
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.
The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
2
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:
Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral
In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".
However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.
This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.
Move one hot to neutral
And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.
In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.
At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).
Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.
By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.
I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
add a comment
|
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2 Answers
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2 Answers
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oldest
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It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.
The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
2
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.
The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
2
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.
The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.
It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.
The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.
answered 8 hours ago
Nate StricklandNate Strickland
1,7411 silver badge13 bronze badges
1,7411 silver badge13 bronze badges
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
2
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
2
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.
– AllInOne
8 hours ago
2
2
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.
– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.
– user3757614
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
You're good for "air fluff"
– JACK
8 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".
– Kaz
7 hours ago
|
show 2 more comments
Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:
Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral
In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".
However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.
This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.
Move one hot to neutral
And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.
In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.
At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).
Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.
By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.
I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
add a comment
|
Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:
Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral
In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".
However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.
This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.
Move one hot to neutral
And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.
In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.
At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).
Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.
By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.
I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
add a comment
|
Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:
Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral
In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".
However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.
This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.
Move one hot to neutral
And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.
In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.
At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).
Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.
By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.
Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:
Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral
In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".
However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.
This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.
Move one hot to neutral
And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.
In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.
At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).
Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.
By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.
answered 6 hours ago
HarperHarper
97.7k7 gold badges72 silver badges202 bronze badges
97.7k7 gold badges72 silver badges202 bronze badges
I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
add a comment
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I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.
– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago
add a comment
|
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1
If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.
– Kaz
7 hours ago
1
That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.
– Kaz
7 hours ago