Safe to use 220V electric clothes dryer when building has been bridged down to 110V?My house was hit by...

On the meaning of 'anyways' in "What Exactly Is a Quartz Crystal, Anyways?"

What Secular Civic Space Would Pioneers Build For Small Frontier Towns?

Is it impolite to ask for an in-flight catalogue with no intention of buying?

Guitar tuning (EADGBE), "perfect" fourths?

practicality of 30 year fix mortgage at 55 years of age

Line segments inside a square

Can a broken/split chain be reassembled?

Designing a time thief proof safe

How do I set a custom order for folders on Windows 7 and 10?

Is there a way to hide HTML source code yet keeping it effective?

Do we know the situation in Britain before Sealion (summer 1940)?

Subverting the emotional woman and stoic man trope

Can "dès que" imply simultaneity ?

A food item only made possible by time-freezing storage?

Is it impolite to ask for halal food when traveling to and in Thailand?

Does HTTP HSTS protect a domain from a bad-actor publically-trusted-CA issing a illegitimate valid certificate?

Hilbert's hotel: why can't I repeat it infinitely many times?

Can I take NEW (still in their boxes) PC PARTS in my checked in luggage?

What do you do if you have developments on your paper during the long peer review process?

Why weren't the Death Star plans transmitted electronically?

When is it acceptable to write a bad letter of recommendation?

Basic digital RC approximation filter in python (Micropython)

Writing a letter of recommendation for a mediocre student

Strange Sticky Substance on Digital Camera



Safe to use 220V electric clothes dryer when building has been bridged down to 110V?


My house was hit by lightning. What should I do?How is power to an entire room restored by plugging something into an outlet in an adjacent room?Testing 3-wire receptacles indicates no ground even though 12/2 w/ground wire is connectedWhat could cause a 220v dryer outlet to have proper voltage but not power the dryer?Is it safe to use a 10 ft non-UL listed power cord for my dryerWhy does my laundry machine trip the GFCI when I plug it in?Practical advice needed on house with no earth/groundCircuit breaker won't turn back on after being turned off (not tripped)






.everyoneloves__top-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__mid-leaderboard:empty,.everyoneloves__bot-mid-leaderboard:empty{ margin-bottom:0;
}







2















We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.



Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.



Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?



I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.



From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?



I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.



Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.










share|improve this question






















  • 1





    If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago






  • 1





    That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago


















2















We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.



Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.



Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?



I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.



From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?



I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.



Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.










share|improve this question






















  • 1





    If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago






  • 1





    That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago














2












2








2








We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.



Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.



Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?



I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.



From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?



I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.



Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.










share|improve this question
















We live in a building with 220V service with primarily 110V outlets but a few specialty ones at 220V.



Earlier this week electrical service in half the building across all three apartments went out. The utility company came out on an emergency basis and restored power by bridging one of the 110V wires onto the faulty one.



Now the lights are back on but the 220V outlets are presumably only offering 110V. It is safe to run a 220V electric dryer on an outlet that now offers 110V of power?



I called the manufacturer of the dryer (Samsung) and all they knew how to do was look up stuff in the manual, which was not helpful. The emergency service technician (not a electrician) was not certain either. I called an electrician and he didn't seem certain either, but recommended against it to be on the safe side.



From the research I have done it seems like the concern might be that the motor might burn out possibly and that definitely the heating element would not get as hot so it might take a lot longer for a load to dry. I can live with the latter but not the former. Additionally are there any safety issues to consider?



I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot.



Repair service is a scheduled for a week away and the laundry is piling up! Even when they attempt repair they are counting on running a new wire through the underground conduit which I already suspect is not sound so they may have to dig which will surely take longer.







electrical appliances us






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 8 hours ago







AllInOne

















asked 8 hours ago









AllInOneAllInOne

1452 silver badges12 bronze badges




1452 silver badges12 bronze badges











  • 1





    If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago






  • 1





    That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago














  • 1





    If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago






  • 1





    That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago








1




1





If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.

– Kaz
7 hours ago





If you call Samsung support, (1) you're not going to get someone with an EE degree, and (2) even if you do that person isn't going to whip out the schematics and prove and disprove that it's safe; they will refer you to the manual which specifies the operating voltage for the unit in the same way as a regular customer support rep.

– Kaz
7 hours ago




1




1





That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.

– Kaz
7 hours ago





That said, appliances have to be capable of handling under-voltage without causing a safety issue. This can happen in brown-outs.

– Kaz
7 hours ago










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















5
















It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.



The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.






share|improve this answer


























  • I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

    – AllInOne
    8 hours ago






  • 2





    @AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

    – Nate Strickland
    8 hours ago











  • The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

    – user3757614
    8 hours ago











  • You're good for "air fluff"

    – JACK
    8 hours ago











  • "Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago





















0
















Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:



Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral



In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".



However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.



This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.



Move one hot to neutral



And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.



In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.



At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).



Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.



By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.






share|improve this answer


























  • I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

    – Nate Strickland
    4 hours ago














Your Answer








StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "73"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});

function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/"u003ecc by-sa 4.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});


}
});















draft saved

draft discarded
















StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f174786%2fsafe-to-use-220v-electric-clothes-dryer-when-building-has-been-bridged-down-to-1%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);

Post as a guest















Required, but never shown

























2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes








2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes









active

oldest

votes






active

oldest

votes









5
















It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.



The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.






share|improve this answer


























  • I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

    – AllInOne
    8 hours ago






  • 2





    @AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

    – Nate Strickland
    8 hours ago











  • The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

    – user3757614
    8 hours ago











  • You're good for "air fluff"

    – JACK
    8 hours ago











  • "Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago


















5
















It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.



The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.






share|improve this answer


























  • I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

    – AllInOne
    8 hours ago






  • 2





    @AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

    – Nate Strickland
    8 hours ago











  • The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

    – user3757614
    8 hours ago











  • You're good for "air fluff"

    – JACK
    8 hours ago











  • "Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago
















5














5










5









It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.



The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.






share|improve this answer













It won't work. Your 220V (really probably 240) outlets will actually have 0V, not 110V.



The reason for this is that normally the 220V outlets make their 220 by taking both 110 lines that are out of phase with each other, such that while 1 is at +110, the other is at -110 for a difference of 220. Since the power company bridged one of the 110 lines to make up for the dead one, that won't work -- they'll both be at +110 or -110 at the same time, for a difference of 0.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 8 hours ago









Nate StricklandNate Strickland

1,7411 silver badge13 bronze badges




1,7411 silver badge13 bronze badges
















  • I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

    – AllInOne
    8 hours ago






  • 2





    @AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

    – Nate Strickland
    8 hours ago











  • The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

    – user3757614
    8 hours ago











  • You're good for "air fluff"

    – JACK
    8 hours ago











  • "Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago





















  • I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

    – AllInOne
    8 hours ago






  • 2





    @AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

    – Nate Strickland
    8 hours ago











  • The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

    – user3757614
    8 hours ago











  • You're good for "air fluff"

    – JACK
    8 hours ago











  • "Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

    – Kaz
    7 hours ago



















I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

– AllInOne
8 hours ago





I tried the dryer for a moment and the panel lit up and the drum spun as expected. Did not test to see if it got hot. Have updated question to reflect this fact.

– AllInOne
8 hours ago




2




2





@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago





@AllInOne, yes, that's not unexpected. Many dryers use 120V for the motor and controls, and 240V for the heating elements. All the 120V parts of the dryer will still work, but the 240V parts will not work at all, so I would expect that it won't produce any heat.

– Nate Strickland
8 hours ago













The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

– user3757614
8 hours ago





The panel and spinning is done via 120V. I think the heater is the only 240V equipment in there. Look around for a local laundromat.

– user3757614
8 hours ago













You're good for "air fluff"

– JACK
8 hours ago





You're good for "air fluff"

– JACK
8 hours ago













"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

– Kaz
7 hours ago







"Will it work" is a different question from "is it safe". Think: "am I safe in this building, given that people around me will try to run their dryers on 110".

– Kaz
7 hours ago















0
















Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:



Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral



In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".



However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.



This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.



Move one hot to neutral



And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.



In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.



At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).



Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.



By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.






share|improve this answer


























  • I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

    – Nate Strickland
    4 hours ago
















0
















Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:



Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral



In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".



However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.



This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.



Move one hot to neutral



And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.



In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.



At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).



Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.



By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.






share|improve this answer


























  • I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

    – Nate Strickland
    4 hours ago














0














0










0









Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:



Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral



In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".



However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.



This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.



Move one hot to neutral



And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.



In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.



At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).



Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.



By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.






share|improve this answer













Most North American style dryers will work on 120V power one of two ways:



Make both hots (the same pole of) 120V, neutral is neutral



In this case, the 120V equipment on the dryer will work. It is not guaranteed to be this way, but likely it will be the timer, controls, blower, and tumble motor. So it can "air fluff".



However, the heat will not work at all. So all you get is air fluff.



This is the setup you are getting by default, due to the way the power company has emergency-bridged it.



Move one hot to neutral



And this modification should be done inside the dryer not by altering the plug or socket. The dryer should be rendered safe in any case, so that nothing spits and sparks if power changes. E.G. Don't lug both of the cord's hot wires together.



In this case, you pick the right hot wire (on the dryer's side) and move it to neutral. If the tumble motor/fan/controls stop working, you picked the wrong hot. Undo it, then use the other hot.



At this point, the tumble motor and fan will work, as will the controls (on most dryers).



Heat is a bit of a problem. It will work, but only at 1/4 power. This is better than nothing but expect drying to take awhile.



By the way, this will require less than 20 amps of power. You could make a dryer work this way on a 120V/20A circuit, because it would draw less than 16A (80%). You would have to measure to see if it uses less than 12A (80%) before putting a common 15A plug on it.







share|improve this answer












share|improve this answer



share|improve this answer










answered 6 hours ago









HarperHarper

97.7k7 gold badges72 silver badges202 bronze badges




97.7k7 gold badges72 silver badges202 bronze badges
















  • I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

    – Nate Strickland
    4 hours ago



















  • I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

    – Nate Strickland
    4 hours ago

















I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago





I'm not sure I'd advise OP to move the hot to try to get some heat working in this situation. Since the entire building is now drawing all its power from one leg, if too many people start to do this, it may well blow the utility's fuse on the remaining phase, and then they'd have no power at all. They may get lucky, but personally I wouldn't risk that given that it won't be very effective at drying clothes anyway.

– Nate Strickland
4 hours ago



















draft saved

draft discarded



















































Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange!


  • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

But avoid



  • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

  • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




draft saved


draft discarded














StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fdiy.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f174786%2fsafe-to-use-220v-electric-clothes-dryer-when-building-has-been-bridged-down-to-1%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);

Post as a guest















Required, but never shown





















































Required, but never shown














Required, but never shown












Required, but never shown







Required, but never shown

































Required, but never shown














Required, but never shown












Required, but never shown







Required, but never shown







Popular posts from this blog

Taj Mahal Inhaltsverzeichnis Aufbau | Geschichte | 350-Jahr-Feier | Heutige Bedeutung | Siehe auch |...

Baia Sprie Cuprins Etimologie | Istorie | Demografie | Politică și administrație | Arii naturale...

Nicolae Petrescu-Găină Cuprins Biografie | Opera | In memoriam | Varia | Controverse, incertitudini...