3-prong to 4-prong conversion - EXTRA MISLABELLED WIRES - Dryer cable upgrade and installationHow can I...
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3-prong to 4-prong conversion - EXTRA MISLABELLED WIRES - Dryer cable upgrade and installation
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Samsung dryer, model DV422EWHDWR/AA
My Dryer has a 3-prong cable, I need to upgrade to 4-prong.
I have TWO GREEN wires here, which is something I cannot find mentioned anywhere else. I reckon that one of these corresponds to the usual solid metal tab connecting the terminal assembly to the dryer’s metal body, and the other corresponds to the (usually white) connection that “pseudo-grounds” from the neutral connection, but I‘m uncertain, don’t want to die, and don’t want to destroy the dryer or the house.
I think I’m supposed to remove the smaller green wire, and connect both the white and the thicker green wire to the center connection on the terminal assembly.
Can anyone offer me wisdom in this matter? If this question is a duplicate, I cannot find any similar question especially regarding the ostensibly mislabelled and extra green wires.
(The image descriptions didn’t appear in the post like I thought - the first image is a picture of how the dryer cable was arranged before I did anything, the second image is of my preliminary tinkering, now I believe that thick green wire should connect to the center terminal with the white cable.)
wiring
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
add a comment
|
Samsung dryer, model DV422EWHDWR/AA
My Dryer has a 3-prong cable, I need to upgrade to 4-prong.
I have TWO GREEN wires here, which is something I cannot find mentioned anywhere else. I reckon that one of these corresponds to the usual solid metal tab connecting the terminal assembly to the dryer’s metal body, and the other corresponds to the (usually white) connection that “pseudo-grounds” from the neutral connection, but I‘m uncertain, don’t want to die, and don’t want to destroy the dryer or the house.
I think I’m supposed to remove the smaller green wire, and connect both the white and the thicker green wire to the center connection on the terminal assembly.
Can anyone offer me wisdom in this matter? If this question is a duplicate, I cannot find any similar question especially regarding the ostensibly mislabelled and extra green wires.
(The image descriptions didn’t appear in the post like I thought - the first image is a picture of how the dryer cable was arranged before I did anything, the second image is of my preliminary tinkering, now I believe that thick green wire should connect to the center terminal with the white cable.)
wiring
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. What make/model is the dryer, and what does the installation manual say? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here.
– Daniel Griscom
8 hours ago
Thank you thank you! I’ll edit with make/model, but the manual doesn’t address mislabelled wires or the additional one at all that I can find. Model DV422EWHDWR/AA. There’s an additional supplemental electrical manual I have a hard copy of that references a SINGLE green/yellow wire in 4 prong setup, but neither the 3-prong nor 4-prong diagrams reference all five of the wires I discovered my dryer setup with while it was still in 3-prong setup.
– Shaun Miller
8 hours ago
Can you perform a continuity check from the neutral screw on the terminal block to the ring lug on the skinny (lower) grounding jumper, with the dryer unplugged of course? That'll tell us something about where it goes, at least...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
Samsung dryer, model DV422EWHDWR/AA
My Dryer has a 3-prong cable, I need to upgrade to 4-prong.
I have TWO GREEN wires here, which is something I cannot find mentioned anywhere else. I reckon that one of these corresponds to the usual solid metal tab connecting the terminal assembly to the dryer’s metal body, and the other corresponds to the (usually white) connection that “pseudo-grounds” from the neutral connection, but I‘m uncertain, don’t want to die, and don’t want to destroy the dryer or the house.
I think I’m supposed to remove the smaller green wire, and connect both the white and the thicker green wire to the center connection on the terminal assembly.
Can anyone offer me wisdom in this matter? If this question is a duplicate, I cannot find any similar question especially regarding the ostensibly mislabelled and extra green wires.
(The image descriptions didn’t appear in the post like I thought - the first image is a picture of how the dryer cable was arranged before I did anything, the second image is of my preliminary tinkering, now I believe that thick green wire should connect to the center terminal with the white cable.)
wiring
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
Samsung dryer, model DV422EWHDWR/AA
My Dryer has a 3-prong cable, I need to upgrade to 4-prong.
I have TWO GREEN wires here, which is something I cannot find mentioned anywhere else. I reckon that one of these corresponds to the usual solid metal tab connecting the terminal assembly to the dryer’s metal body, and the other corresponds to the (usually white) connection that “pseudo-grounds” from the neutral connection, but I‘m uncertain, don’t want to die, and don’t want to destroy the dryer or the house.
I think I’m supposed to remove the smaller green wire, and connect both the white and the thicker green wire to the center connection on the terminal assembly.
Can anyone offer me wisdom in this matter? If this question is a duplicate, I cannot find any similar question especially regarding the ostensibly mislabelled and extra green wires.
(The image descriptions didn’t appear in the post like I thought - the first image is a picture of how the dryer cable was arranged before I did anything, the second image is of my preliminary tinkering, now I believe that thick green wire should connect to the center terminal with the white cable.)
wiring
wiring
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
edited 8 hours ago
Shaun Miller
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
asked 9 hours ago
Shaun MillerShaun Miller
213 bronze badges
213 bronze badges
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
New contributor
Shaun Miller is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. What make/model is the dryer, and what does the installation manual say? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here.
– Daniel Griscom
8 hours ago
Thank you thank you! I’ll edit with make/model, but the manual doesn’t address mislabelled wires or the additional one at all that I can find. Model DV422EWHDWR/AA. There’s an additional supplemental electrical manual I have a hard copy of that references a SINGLE green/yellow wire in 4 prong setup, but neither the 3-prong nor 4-prong diagrams reference all five of the wires I discovered my dryer setup with while it was still in 3-prong setup.
– Shaun Miller
8 hours ago
Can you perform a continuity check from the neutral screw on the terminal block to the ring lug on the skinny (lower) grounding jumper, with the dryer unplugged of course? That'll tell us something about where it goes, at least...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. What make/model is the dryer, and what does the installation manual say? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here.
– Daniel Griscom
8 hours ago
Thank you thank you! I’ll edit with make/model, but the manual doesn’t address mislabelled wires or the additional one at all that I can find. Model DV422EWHDWR/AA. There’s an additional supplemental electrical manual I have a hard copy of that references a SINGLE green/yellow wire in 4 prong setup, but neither the 3-prong nor 4-prong diagrams reference all five of the wires I discovered my dryer setup with while it was still in 3-prong setup.
– Shaun Miller
8 hours ago
Can you perform a continuity check from the neutral screw on the terminal block to the ring lug on the skinny (lower) grounding jumper, with the dryer unplugged of course? That'll tell us something about where it goes, at least...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
1
1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. What make/model is the dryer, and what does the installation manual say? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here.
– Daniel Griscom
8 hours ago
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. What make/model is the dryer, and what does the installation manual say? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here.
– Daniel Griscom
8 hours ago
Thank you thank you! I’ll edit with make/model, but the manual doesn’t address mislabelled wires or the additional one at all that I can find. Model DV422EWHDWR/AA. There’s an additional supplemental electrical manual I have a hard copy of that references a SINGLE green/yellow wire in 4 prong setup, but neither the 3-prong nor 4-prong diagrams reference all five of the wires I discovered my dryer setup with while it was still in 3-prong setup.
– Shaun Miller
8 hours ago
Thank you thank you! I’ll edit with make/model, but the manual doesn’t address mislabelled wires or the additional one at all that I can find. Model DV422EWHDWR/AA. There’s an additional supplemental electrical manual I have a hard copy of that references a SINGLE green/yellow wire in 4 prong setup, but neither the 3-prong nor 4-prong diagrams reference all five of the wires I discovered my dryer setup with while it was still in 3-prong setup.
– Shaun Miller
8 hours ago
Can you perform a continuity check from the neutral screw on the terminal block to the ring lug on the skinny (lower) grounding jumper, with the dryer unplugged of course? That'll tell us something about where it goes, at least...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
Can you perform a continuity check from the neutral screw on the terminal block to the ring lug on the skinny (lower) grounding jumper, with the dryer unplugged of course? That'll tell us something about where it goes, at least...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
No, No, No! In this day and age you never hook green (ground) wires to white (neutral) wires. That's why you're going to a 4 prong from a 3 prong... so you can separate them. You need to determine where those green wires are hooked up that appear to go behind the terminal block to make sure they are not jumped to the neutral, white wire. If they are, disconnect them and just remove them completely as they are not needed because of the new ground wire in the plug.
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
1
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
add a comment
|
Neutral is not ground. You must always keep them separate. (even in the main panel; however there, you will have a neutral-ground equipotential bond, the only one in the house).
So a 4-wire connection does exactly what you'd think: neutral to neutral and ground to ground.
However, before grounding, it was universal to run a 3-wire connection to dryers and ranges. The appliance industry did not want to deal with change, because they feared they'd lose a lot of business if everyone had to rewire their house to buy a new appliance. So they convinced NFPA to cut them an exception, where the appliance chassis is "grounded" to neutral. Anywhere else, this is called "bootlegging ground".
So a 3-wire connection has two parts to it: The three wires connecting as you'd expect, and also a jumper between neutral and ground.
NEC 110.3B requires you to follow the instructions and labeling when installing an appliance. The instructions will certainly include a procedure to convert from 4-prong to 3-prong or vice versa. Look for that neutral-ground jumper, and remove it. On your dryer, I believe the green/yellow wire actually is attached to the neutral terminal at its other end. Your particular instructions (page 17 part 8) instruct to "loop back" the green/yellow ground wire back to the neutral terminal, rendering it inert. (Even though it looks really weird).
The small ground wire you removed appears to be out-of-scope of the instructions I mentioned. I would put it back.
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
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2 Answers
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active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
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votes
No, No, No! In this day and age you never hook green (ground) wires to white (neutral) wires. That's why you're going to a 4 prong from a 3 prong... so you can separate them. You need to determine where those green wires are hooked up that appear to go behind the terminal block to make sure they are not jumped to the neutral, white wire. If they are, disconnect them and just remove them completely as they are not needed because of the new ground wire in the plug.
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
1
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
add a comment
|
No, No, No! In this day and age you never hook green (ground) wires to white (neutral) wires. That's why you're going to a 4 prong from a 3 prong... so you can separate them. You need to determine where those green wires are hooked up that appear to go behind the terminal block to make sure they are not jumped to the neutral, white wire. If they are, disconnect them and just remove them completely as they are not needed because of the new ground wire in the plug.
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
1
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
add a comment
|
No, No, No! In this day and age you never hook green (ground) wires to white (neutral) wires. That's why you're going to a 4 prong from a 3 prong... so you can separate them. You need to determine where those green wires are hooked up that appear to go behind the terminal block to make sure they are not jumped to the neutral, white wire. If they are, disconnect them and just remove them completely as they are not needed because of the new ground wire in the plug.
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
No, No, No! In this day and age you never hook green (ground) wires to white (neutral) wires. That's why you're going to a 4 prong from a 3 prong... so you can separate them. You need to determine where those green wires are hooked up that appear to go behind the terminal block to make sure they are not jumped to the neutral, white wire. If they are, disconnect them and just remove them completely as they are not needed because of the new ground wire in the plug.
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
answered 7 hours ago
JACKJACK
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
5,5173 silver badges15 bronze badges
1
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
add a comment
|
1
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
1
1
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
I appreciate your input so much, that’s the very issue here: it’s abundantly clear that NEITHER of these wires should have been green in the first place, yet there the freaking stinkers were, placed there by Best Buy’s professional installation six years ago. XD. So, I might have to hire a professional for this, I’ve been trying to take apart the chassis enough to see where these two greens are actually going so I can know which one to hook to the white center terminal, but I can’t seem to get there - even to properly remove or disconnect them entirely. Again, greatly appreciate your input :)
– Shaun Miller
4 hours ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
Get a multimeter (or in a pinch, a continuity tester), that will tell you which is hooked where (simply touch one lead to a wire in question and one to the white, if it beeps/lights/zeroes out/etc, you have an electrical connection).
– Doktor J
56 mins ago
add a comment
|
Neutral is not ground. You must always keep them separate. (even in the main panel; however there, you will have a neutral-ground equipotential bond, the only one in the house).
So a 4-wire connection does exactly what you'd think: neutral to neutral and ground to ground.
However, before grounding, it was universal to run a 3-wire connection to dryers and ranges. The appliance industry did not want to deal with change, because they feared they'd lose a lot of business if everyone had to rewire their house to buy a new appliance. So they convinced NFPA to cut them an exception, where the appliance chassis is "grounded" to neutral. Anywhere else, this is called "bootlegging ground".
So a 3-wire connection has two parts to it: The three wires connecting as you'd expect, and also a jumper between neutral and ground.
NEC 110.3B requires you to follow the instructions and labeling when installing an appliance. The instructions will certainly include a procedure to convert from 4-prong to 3-prong or vice versa. Look for that neutral-ground jumper, and remove it. On your dryer, I believe the green/yellow wire actually is attached to the neutral terminal at its other end. Your particular instructions (page 17 part 8) instruct to "loop back" the green/yellow ground wire back to the neutral terminal, rendering it inert. (Even though it looks really weird).
The small ground wire you removed appears to be out-of-scope of the instructions I mentioned. I would put it back.
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
Neutral is not ground. You must always keep them separate. (even in the main panel; however there, you will have a neutral-ground equipotential bond, the only one in the house).
So a 4-wire connection does exactly what you'd think: neutral to neutral and ground to ground.
However, before grounding, it was universal to run a 3-wire connection to dryers and ranges. The appliance industry did not want to deal with change, because they feared they'd lose a lot of business if everyone had to rewire their house to buy a new appliance. So they convinced NFPA to cut them an exception, where the appliance chassis is "grounded" to neutral. Anywhere else, this is called "bootlegging ground".
So a 3-wire connection has two parts to it: The three wires connecting as you'd expect, and also a jumper between neutral and ground.
NEC 110.3B requires you to follow the instructions and labeling when installing an appliance. The instructions will certainly include a procedure to convert from 4-prong to 3-prong or vice versa. Look for that neutral-ground jumper, and remove it. On your dryer, I believe the green/yellow wire actually is attached to the neutral terminal at its other end. Your particular instructions (page 17 part 8) instruct to "loop back" the green/yellow ground wire back to the neutral terminal, rendering it inert. (Even though it looks really weird).
The small ground wire you removed appears to be out-of-scope of the instructions I mentioned. I would put it back.
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
Neutral is not ground. You must always keep them separate. (even in the main panel; however there, you will have a neutral-ground equipotential bond, the only one in the house).
So a 4-wire connection does exactly what you'd think: neutral to neutral and ground to ground.
However, before grounding, it was universal to run a 3-wire connection to dryers and ranges. The appliance industry did not want to deal with change, because they feared they'd lose a lot of business if everyone had to rewire their house to buy a new appliance. So they convinced NFPA to cut them an exception, where the appliance chassis is "grounded" to neutral. Anywhere else, this is called "bootlegging ground".
So a 3-wire connection has two parts to it: The three wires connecting as you'd expect, and also a jumper between neutral and ground.
NEC 110.3B requires you to follow the instructions and labeling when installing an appliance. The instructions will certainly include a procedure to convert from 4-prong to 3-prong or vice versa. Look for that neutral-ground jumper, and remove it. On your dryer, I believe the green/yellow wire actually is attached to the neutral terminal at its other end. Your particular instructions (page 17 part 8) instruct to "loop back" the green/yellow ground wire back to the neutral terminal, rendering it inert. (Even though it looks really weird).
The small ground wire you removed appears to be out-of-scope of the instructions I mentioned. I would put it back.
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
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Neutral is not ground. You must always keep them separate. (even in the main panel; however there, you will have a neutral-ground equipotential bond, the only one in the house).
So a 4-wire connection does exactly what you'd think: neutral to neutral and ground to ground.
However, before grounding, it was universal to run a 3-wire connection to dryers and ranges. The appliance industry did not want to deal with change, because they feared they'd lose a lot of business if everyone had to rewire their house to buy a new appliance. So they convinced NFPA to cut them an exception, where the appliance chassis is "grounded" to neutral. Anywhere else, this is called "bootlegging ground".
So a 3-wire connection has two parts to it: The three wires connecting as you'd expect, and also a jumper between neutral and ground.
NEC 110.3B requires you to follow the instructions and labeling when installing an appliance. The instructions will certainly include a procedure to convert from 4-prong to 3-prong or vice versa. Look for that neutral-ground jumper, and remove it. On your dryer, I believe the green/yellow wire actually is attached to the neutral terminal at its other end. Your particular instructions (page 17 part 8) instruct to "loop back" the green/yellow ground wire back to the neutral terminal, rendering it inert. (Even though it looks really weird).
The small ground wire you removed appears to be out-of-scope of the instructions I mentioned. I would put it back.
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
edited 2 hours ago
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
answered 2 hours ago
HarperHarper
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
100k7 gold badges75 silver badges213 bronze badges
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
He's run into a situation where there appears to be an extra jumper on his unit that's not discussed by the instruction manual...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago
add a comment
|
Shaun Miller is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Shaun Miller is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Shaun Miller is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Shaun Miller is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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1
Hello, and welcome to Home Improvement. What make/model is the dryer, and what does the installation manual say? And, you should probably take our tour so you'll know how best to participate here.
– Daniel Griscom
8 hours ago
Thank you thank you! I’ll edit with make/model, but the manual doesn’t address mislabelled wires or the additional one at all that I can find. Model DV422EWHDWR/AA. There’s an additional supplemental electrical manual I have a hard copy of that references a SINGLE green/yellow wire in 4 prong setup, but neither the 3-prong nor 4-prong diagrams reference all five of the wires I discovered my dryer setup with while it was still in 3-prong setup.
– Shaun Miller
8 hours ago
Can you perform a continuity check from the neutral screw on the terminal block to the ring lug on the skinny (lower) grounding jumper, with the dryer unplugged of course? That'll tell us something about where it goes, at least...
– ThreePhaseEel
2 hours ago