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What is the term for completing a climbing route uncleanly?
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If a climber completes a route without using their protection that is called sending.
What is the term if one completes the route but had to depend on the rope either for a rest or for a fall?
Let's say using the rope lowers the climber enough that they still have to complete all moves. In other words all moves have been done properly, but the ascent wasn't clean.
climbing terminology
New contributor
add a comment |
If a climber completes a route without using their protection that is called sending.
What is the term if one completes the route but had to depend on the rope either for a rest or for a fall?
Let's say using the rope lowers the climber enough that they still have to complete all moves. In other words all moves have been done properly, but the ascent wasn't clean.
climbing terminology
New contributor
"Hang dog" thecrag.com/en/article/ticktypes
– endolith
11 hours ago
Having a high gravity day
– Charlie Brumbaugh
3 hours ago
add a comment |
If a climber completes a route without using their protection that is called sending.
What is the term if one completes the route but had to depend on the rope either for a rest or for a fall?
Let's say using the rope lowers the climber enough that they still have to complete all moves. In other words all moves have been done properly, but the ascent wasn't clean.
climbing terminology
New contributor
If a climber completes a route without using their protection that is called sending.
What is the term if one completes the route but had to depend on the rope either for a rest or for a fall?
Let's say using the rope lowers the climber enough that they still have to complete all moves. In other words all moves have been done properly, but the ascent wasn't clean.
climbing terminology
climbing terminology
New contributor
New contributor
edited 5 mins ago
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"Hang dog" thecrag.com/en/article/ticktypes
– endolith
11 hours ago
Having a high gravity day
– Charlie Brumbaugh
3 hours ago
add a comment |
"Hang dog" thecrag.com/en/article/ticktypes
– endolith
11 hours ago
Having a high gravity day
– Charlie Brumbaugh
3 hours ago
"Hang dog" thecrag.com/en/article/ticktypes
– endolith
11 hours ago
"Hang dog" thecrag.com/en/article/ticktypes
– endolith
11 hours ago
Having a high gravity day
– Charlie Brumbaugh
3 hours ago
Having a high gravity day
– Charlie Brumbaugh
3 hours ago
add a comment |
5 Answers
5
active
oldest
votes
In aid climbing this is still sending since hanging on protection is part of the game (as @StrongBad points out, hanging on the rope is a little different than hanging on protection.)
In sport climbing, however, there is no specific word or phrase. I think the most common ways to describe it are:
Projecting
As in "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a." This doesn't capture the fact that you've done all the moves, but most sport climbers are focused on the clean send, and so a large part of projecting involves doing all the moves in sequence with the occasional hang.
Worked through all the moves
As in "I worked through all the moves on Predator 5.13b." This could mean that you rappelled in to try each move, but in some groups this will be understood as ground-up climbing.
...but not clean.
As in "I climbed my first 5.8 today, but not clean. I had to take once after the crux." This will usually be followed by rude people reminding you that you didn't "actually send", and nice people reminding you that you should climb however you want as long as its safe and fun.
Edit: I changed the example here from "sent" to "climbed" because after thinking more about Adam's comment, I think there is a whole connotation involved with "sending" that some climbers may not like appropriated.
I think it's important to realize, though, that not officially "sending" is no less impressive or cool than sending. My experience in sport climbing circles is that no matter how hard you send or how many times you hang, other climbers will be stoked for you if you're trying hard and enjoying yourself.
2
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
1
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
1
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
add a comment |
Without falling, wouldn’t it be hangdog, see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms#hangdog
With falling, I also would go for projecting.
(Speaking of Sports climbing!)
3
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
add a comment |
I cannot comment @vladimir F
Sorry the red point, while coming from German and especially from German climber Kurt Albert, does not come from the Elbsandsteingebirge but from Frankenjura (a Limestone region)! See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_(climbing)
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
add a comment |
That is a free climb (the outcome). The term you may use is All Free (AF). It is much more established in German (Alles Frei). Remember, that RP (Rot Punkt) also comes from German. It (AF) makes more sense in traditional sandstone climbing in Elbsandstein, in multipitch clibing and in alpine climbing though. Check, for example, this book, I quote "The AF (All Free) style was developed in the Alps as the first recognized sport style of free climbing , where the climber uses only natural for advancement and and overcomes the route with his/her own strength."
2
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
I think the general progression I use is climbed, led, freed, on sighted, and flashed. I might break freed into red point and pink point if the route or area makes if ambiguous. I generally break led into a lot of terms like groveled, hang dogged, whimpered, depending on how ugly I was. Terms like projecting to me mean you are working towards freeing the route, but if I led a route with a single fall and have no plans to go back, I would describe that as projecting.
add a comment |
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5 Answers
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In aid climbing this is still sending since hanging on protection is part of the game (as @StrongBad points out, hanging on the rope is a little different than hanging on protection.)
In sport climbing, however, there is no specific word or phrase. I think the most common ways to describe it are:
Projecting
As in "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a." This doesn't capture the fact that you've done all the moves, but most sport climbers are focused on the clean send, and so a large part of projecting involves doing all the moves in sequence with the occasional hang.
Worked through all the moves
As in "I worked through all the moves on Predator 5.13b." This could mean that you rappelled in to try each move, but in some groups this will be understood as ground-up climbing.
...but not clean.
As in "I climbed my first 5.8 today, but not clean. I had to take once after the crux." This will usually be followed by rude people reminding you that you didn't "actually send", and nice people reminding you that you should climb however you want as long as its safe and fun.
Edit: I changed the example here from "sent" to "climbed" because after thinking more about Adam's comment, I think there is a whole connotation involved with "sending" that some climbers may not like appropriated.
I think it's important to realize, though, that not officially "sending" is no less impressive or cool than sending. My experience in sport climbing circles is that no matter how hard you send or how many times you hang, other climbers will be stoked for you if you're trying hard and enjoying yourself.
2
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
1
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
1
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
add a comment |
In aid climbing this is still sending since hanging on protection is part of the game (as @StrongBad points out, hanging on the rope is a little different than hanging on protection.)
In sport climbing, however, there is no specific word or phrase. I think the most common ways to describe it are:
Projecting
As in "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a." This doesn't capture the fact that you've done all the moves, but most sport climbers are focused on the clean send, and so a large part of projecting involves doing all the moves in sequence with the occasional hang.
Worked through all the moves
As in "I worked through all the moves on Predator 5.13b." This could mean that you rappelled in to try each move, but in some groups this will be understood as ground-up climbing.
...but not clean.
As in "I climbed my first 5.8 today, but not clean. I had to take once after the crux." This will usually be followed by rude people reminding you that you didn't "actually send", and nice people reminding you that you should climb however you want as long as its safe and fun.
Edit: I changed the example here from "sent" to "climbed" because after thinking more about Adam's comment, I think there is a whole connotation involved with "sending" that some climbers may not like appropriated.
I think it's important to realize, though, that not officially "sending" is no less impressive or cool than sending. My experience in sport climbing circles is that no matter how hard you send or how many times you hang, other climbers will be stoked for you if you're trying hard and enjoying yourself.
2
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
1
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
1
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
add a comment |
In aid climbing this is still sending since hanging on protection is part of the game (as @StrongBad points out, hanging on the rope is a little different than hanging on protection.)
In sport climbing, however, there is no specific word or phrase. I think the most common ways to describe it are:
Projecting
As in "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a." This doesn't capture the fact that you've done all the moves, but most sport climbers are focused on the clean send, and so a large part of projecting involves doing all the moves in sequence with the occasional hang.
Worked through all the moves
As in "I worked through all the moves on Predator 5.13b." This could mean that you rappelled in to try each move, but in some groups this will be understood as ground-up climbing.
...but not clean.
As in "I climbed my first 5.8 today, but not clean. I had to take once after the crux." This will usually be followed by rude people reminding you that you didn't "actually send", and nice people reminding you that you should climb however you want as long as its safe and fun.
Edit: I changed the example here from "sent" to "climbed" because after thinking more about Adam's comment, I think there is a whole connotation involved with "sending" that some climbers may not like appropriated.
I think it's important to realize, though, that not officially "sending" is no less impressive or cool than sending. My experience in sport climbing circles is that no matter how hard you send or how many times you hang, other climbers will be stoked for you if you're trying hard and enjoying yourself.
In aid climbing this is still sending since hanging on protection is part of the game (as @StrongBad points out, hanging on the rope is a little different than hanging on protection.)
In sport climbing, however, there is no specific word or phrase. I think the most common ways to describe it are:
Projecting
As in "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a." This doesn't capture the fact that you've done all the moves, but most sport climbers are focused on the clean send, and so a large part of projecting involves doing all the moves in sequence with the occasional hang.
Worked through all the moves
As in "I worked through all the moves on Predator 5.13b." This could mean that you rappelled in to try each move, but in some groups this will be understood as ground-up climbing.
...but not clean.
As in "I climbed my first 5.8 today, but not clean. I had to take once after the crux." This will usually be followed by rude people reminding you that you didn't "actually send", and nice people reminding you that you should climb however you want as long as its safe and fun.
Edit: I changed the example here from "sent" to "climbed" because after thinking more about Adam's comment, I think there is a whole connotation involved with "sending" that some climbers may not like appropriated.
I think it's important to realize, though, that not officially "sending" is no less impressive or cool than sending. My experience in sport climbing circles is that no matter how hard you send or how many times you hang, other climbers will be stoked for you if you're trying hard and enjoying yourself.
edited 11 hours ago
answered 14 hours ago
John HughesJohn Hughes
79410 bronze badges
79410 bronze badges
2
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
1
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
1
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
add a comment |
2
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
1
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
1
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
2
2
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
Hanging on protection is the WHOLE game in aid climbing (well that and pooping in a tube). That said, hanging on the rope in aid climbing is not part of the game. Technically one could aid climb without a rope.
– StrongBad
14 hours ago
1
1
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
What do you think about simply "sent uncleanly"? or "uncleanly sent"?
– Adam
12 hours ago
1
1
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
"projecting" also covers the case where the route wasn't completed (yet), so it's too broad. "I'm projecting Era Vella 9a" can mean "I'm working on this route but I've only done the first half so far".
– Adam
12 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
I agree--that's why I said it "doesn't capture the fact that you haven't done all the moves." I just meant to include it as an example of something you might say had you completed all the moves but not clean.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
Re: "sent uncleanly" or "uncleanly sent": While I think it'll obvious to most climbers what you mean, a lot of folks would take issue with you calling it "sending" at all. I think sending has a connotation of linking moves to do a route as cohesive whole--if you stick each move on its own with a 5 minute hanging rest in between... it kinda renounces that connotation which I suspect many climbers feel is important.
– John Hughes
11 hours ago
add a comment |
Without falling, wouldn’t it be hangdog, see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms#hangdog
With falling, I also would go for projecting.
(Speaking of Sports climbing!)
3
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
add a comment |
Without falling, wouldn’t it be hangdog, see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms#hangdog
With falling, I also would go for projecting.
(Speaking of Sports climbing!)
3
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
add a comment |
Without falling, wouldn’t it be hangdog, see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms#hangdog
With falling, I also would go for projecting.
(Speaking of Sports climbing!)
Without falling, wouldn’t it be hangdog, see https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_climbing_terms#hangdog
With falling, I also would go for projecting.
(Speaking of Sports climbing!)
answered 13 hours ago
canIchangethiscanIchangethis
594 bronze badges
594 bronze badges
3
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
add a comment |
3
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
3
3
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
"Hangdog" was my first thought too, but I don't think it quite fits what the asker seems to want, which is a term you can apply directly to the whole route: you can say "I sent the route", "I flashed the route", "I onsighted the route", etc. but I wouldn't say "I hangdogged the route" -- I'd use some circumlocution like "I managed to complete it with a bit of hangdogging". But maybe there are others who do use the term like that.
– Pont
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Pont that's right
– Adam
12 hours ago
add a comment |
I cannot comment @vladimir F
Sorry the red point, while coming from German and especially from German climber Kurt Albert, does not come from the Elbsandsteingebirge but from Frankenjura (a Limestone region)! See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_(climbing)
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
add a comment |
I cannot comment @vladimir F
Sorry the red point, while coming from German and especially from German climber Kurt Albert, does not come from the Elbsandsteingebirge but from Frankenjura (a Limestone region)! See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_(climbing)
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
add a comment |
I cannot comment @vladimir F
Sorry the red point, while coming from German and especially from German climber Kurt Albert, does not come from the Elbsandsteingebirge but from Frankenjura (a Limestone region)! See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_(climbing)
I cannot comment @vladimir F
Sorry the red point, while coming from German and especially from German climber Kurt Albert, does not come from the Elbsandsteingebirge but from Frankenjura (a Limestone region)! See https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Redpoint_(climbing)
answered 7 hours ago
canIchangethiscanIchangethis
594 bronze badges
594 bronze badges
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
add a comment |
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
I gave you some votes to get you over 50 so you can comment. But this is trivia about a concept we're not talking about, so it doesn't really belong as an answer.
– Adam
5 hours ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
Thanks Adam. I will replace it!
– canIchangethis
46 mins ago
add a comment |
That is a free climb (the outcome). The term you may use is All Free (AF). It is much more established in German (Alles Frei). Remember, that RP (Rot Punkt) also comes from German. It (AF) makes more sense in traditional sandstone climbing in Elbsandstein, in multipitch clibing and in alpine climbing though. Check, for example, this book, I quote "The AF (All Free) style was developed in the Alps as the first recognized sport style of free climbing , where the climber uses only natural for advancement and and overcomes the route with his/her own strength."
2
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
That is a free climb (the outcome). The term you may use is All Free (AF). It is much more established in German (Alles Frei). Remember, that RP (Rot Punkt) also comes from German. It (AF) makes more sense in traditional sandstone climbing in Elbsandstein, in multipitch clibing and in alpine climbing though. Check, for example, this book, I quote "The AF (All Free) style was developed in the Alps as the first recognized sport style of free climbing , where the climber uses only natural for advancement and and overcomes the route with his/her own strength."
2
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
That is a free climb (the outcome). The term you may use is All Free (AF). It is much more established in German (Alles Frei). Remember, that RP (Rot Punkt) also comes from German. It (AF) makes more sense in traditional sandstone climbing in Elbsandstein, in multipitch clibing and in alpine climbing though. Check, for example, this book, I quote "The AF (All Free) style was developed in the Alps as the first recognized sport style of free climbing , where the climber uses only natural for advancement and and overcomes the route with his/her own strength."
That is a free climb (the outcome). The term you may use is All Free (AF). It is much more established in German (Alles Frei). Remember, that RP (Rot Punkt) also comes from German. It (AF) makes more sense in traditional sandstone climbing in Elbsandstein, in multipitch clibing and in alpine climbing though. Check, for example, this book, I quote "The AF (All Free) style was developed in the Alps as the first recognized sport style of free climbing , where the climber uses only natural for advancement and and overcomes the route with his/her own strength."
edited 10 hours ago
answered 12 hours ago
Vladimir FVladimir F
3494 silver badges6 bronze badges
3494 silver badges6 bronze badges
2
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
2
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
2
2
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
That describers the style of climbing, but doesn't describe the outcome of a particular climb.
– Adam
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@Adam The outcome is a route climbed in particular style. Climbed top rope, aid, all free, red point, pink point, flash, on sight, everything describes a style in which the climb was performed. Sometimes you will hear "first free climb" of certain route (often alpine), thats this, one can rest, but climbs the whole mountain wall free.
– Vladimir F
12 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@VladimirF I don't have prove, but I very much contest the statement that for a "first free ascent" you can rest anywhere. For all I know you need to red-point for it to be considered an actual free ascent.
– imsodin
10 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin Maybe in Yosemites, but what about Himalayas? No-one speaks about RPs there. What about Hanging carefully on the piton, he placed a bolt and abseiled down. Later he came back and fought his way up, occasionally resting on slings and he graded the route IXa AF. Today, this demanding and slippery route contains an added bolt on the lower part. It was added by Bernd Arnold and its RP difficulty is IXb (7a fr.). (about a route in Elbsandstein) There were free ascents decades before RP was a thing.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
@imsodin But please do note that I did not put such a claim (mentioning first free ascents) into my answer.
– Vladimir F
9 hours ago
|
show 1 more comment
I think the general progression I use is climbed, led, freed, on sighted, and flashed. I might break freed into red point and pink point if the route or area makes if ambiguous. I generally break led into a lot of terms like groveled, hang dogged, whimpered, depending on how ugly I was. Terms like projecting to me mean you are working towards freeing the route, but if I led a route with a single fall and have no plans to go back, I would describe that as projecting.
add a comment |
I think the general progression I use is climbed, led, freed, on sighted, and flashed. I might break freed into red point and pink point if the route or area makes if ambiguous. I generally break led into a lot of terms like groveled, hang dogged, whimpered, depending on how ugly I was. Terms like projecting to me mean you are working towards freeing the route, but if I led a route with a single fall and have no plans to go back, I would describe that as projecting.
add a comment |
I think the general progression I use is climbed, led, freed, on sighted, and flashed. I might break freed into red point and pink point if the route or area makes if ambiguous. I generally break led into a lot of terms like groveled, hang dogged, whimpered, depending on how ugly I was. Terms like projecting to me mean you are working towards freeing the route, but if I led a route with a single fall and have no plans to go back, I would describe that as projecting.
I think the general progression I use is climbed, led, freed, on sighted, and flashed. I might break freed into red point and pink point if the route or area makes if ambiguous. I generally break led into a lot of terms like groveled, hang dogged, whimpered, depending on how ugly I was. Terms like projecting to me mean you are working towards freeing the route, but if I led a route with a single fall and have no plans to go back, I would describe that as projecting.
answered 3 hours ago
StrongBadStrongBad
8,30224 silver badges55 bronze badges
8,30224 silver badges55 bronze badges
add a comment |
add a comment |
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"Hang dog" thecrag.com/en/article/ticktypes
– endolith
11 hours ago
Having a high gravity day
– Charlie Brumbaugh
3 hours ago