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Should I replace a carport post as it was originally built or with an upgraded column?

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2

I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.

The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.

I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.

The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.

What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?

structural replacement post column carport

share|improve this question

edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

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monknomomonknomo

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• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
  
  – Steve-o169
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
  
  – monknomo
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment
 | 

2

I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.

The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.

I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.

The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.

What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?

structural replacement post column carport

share|improve this question

edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

5,10899 gold badges2424 silver badges3838 bronze badges

asked 9 hours ago

monknomomonknomo

11122 bronze badges

New contributor

monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  What's to be concerned about? The 2x4 held for over 50 years according to your post -- I assume it would continue just fine if you simply replace it as is.
  
  – Steve-o169
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  I’ve had the same thought. It’s just an awful lot of roof propped up by a 2x4...
  
  – monknomo
  8 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment
 | 

I’ve got a 60s era carport with a rotted post. It’s a low slope cantilevered roof about 20 feet long. It has two posts on each corner at the front, and the back is supported by the house.

The rotted post is a 2x4 sandwiched by 2x6s like an I beam.

I could replace it as built, Doug fir 2x. The roof is big enough that I’m a little concerned about a 2x4 holding up all that load.

The pier this rests on is perfectly sized for a 4x6. What holds me back from putting in a 4x6 is I don’t know about cutting a birds mouth into an existing beam, and the pier is not very level.

What do you all think? As built or how to sub in a bigger column?

structural replacement post column carport

share|improve this question

edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

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asked 9 hours ago

monknomomonknomo

11122 bronze badges

New contributor

monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

share|improve this question

edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

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asked 9 hours ago

monknomomonknomo

11122 bronze badges

New contributor

monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

share|improve this question

edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

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asked 9 hours ago

monknomomonknomo

11122 bronze badges

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monknomo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

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edited 7 hours ago

Daniel Griscom

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asked 9 hours ago

monknomomonknomo

11122 bronze badges

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Check out our Code of Conduct.

asked 9 hours ago

monknomomonknomo

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1 Answer
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5

The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.

To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.

I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.

share|improve this answer

edited 7 hours ago

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
  
  – JACK
  7 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment
 | 

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5

The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.

To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.

I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.

share|improve this answer

edited 7 hours ago

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
  
  – JACK
  7 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment
 | 

5

The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.

To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.

I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.

share|improve this answer

edited 7 hours ago

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  
  I agree with everything but the deck screws. I think stainless steel would be better. I have used those deck screws on pt and had really bad results.
  
  – JACK
  7 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment
 | 

The post looks reasonably adequate as it was originally built even by modern standards. If it wasn't you'd have seen disaster long ago, when it first started to decay.

To maintain the style detail I'd rebuild to match, using pressure-treated lumber. By doing so you eliminate the need to cut that notch and you end up with a more robust post. A single post member may have weaknesses that are addressed by using multiple boards.

I'd fit everything and screw it all together at 24" intervals with pairs of 3" corrosion-resistant deck screws from each side. After it dries out for a few weeks, use a high-quality wood filler to flatten out the screw heads, then prime and paint.

share|improve this answer

edited 7 hours ago

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges

share|improve this answer

edited 7 hours ago

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges

answered 8 hours ago

isherwoodisherwood

58.6k55 gold badges7070 silver badges153153 bronze badges